MILAN MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS SS15: THE BEST LOOKS

Following on from LCM (see my favourite collections here) we now have the menswear collections in Milan! Theres a couple more recognisable names here than in London and overall I think I preferred the Milan shows to London’s. Anyway, without further adieu, my favourite of the Milan Menswear Collections, SS15!
Antonio Marras
The newsprint shirt reminds me of Carrie’s newspaper dress in Sex And The City and I love the other prints. Like in London, geometrics and graphics seem to be making a big impact on the Milan menswear collections.

Belstaff
Oh my God, can I just have it all? This is like the ultimate biker-chic uniform, I love the metallic jackets (in particular the brassy gold), such a cool way to update a classic without being too trend-y. These pieces won’t go out of style come next season, they will be investments to cherish.
Bottega Veneta
To me this collection seems quite close to Earth. The prints remind me of nature; stone, sea and sand! Lovely loose shapes as well. Fashion definitely wants to move away from the skinny trend.
Calvin Klein Collection
I really like this, I would’t usually associate Calvin Klein with such dark burgundy tones but it works well with the pale peach. The shine on the tank top and jacket is spectacular (is that some sort of exotic skin? If so I have to say I don’t agree with using real animal fur/skin in clothing, it could be faux but I doubt it).
Daks
This is a look I reckon will be very popular in a year or so. Everything about this, from the colours to the block-shape sweaters, screams 70’s geometric without being a massive departure from current styles.
Diesel Black Gold
Its quite simple in terms of structure, nothing new with the skinny trousers and the classic mac/biker jacket shapes. The print on the biker is largely why I included this, that and I like how the hair is styled in a uniform sort of messy bowl-cut.
Dolce & Gabbana
I’m just gonna go out on a limb here and say that this is my favourite of the SS15 mens collections so far. D&G have been exploring the whole biblical grandeur thing for a while now and this Spanish, matador luxe collection seems like a worthy extension. I am OBSESSED with the suit on the bottom row, second to right, it reminds me of a Walter Van Beirendonck fantasy suit Kurt wore on Glee once. Truly excellent!
DSquared2
This ones a mixed bag. I like the 50’s styling of the hair and makeup (and glasses, very Clark Kent) but the fluoro isn’t really doing it for me. But the rest of it is very nice, the deconstructed denim and the trench is excellent.
Emporio Armani
Love! Graphic clean lines, crisp whites… not much to say other than that but for what it is, it’s well executed.
Etro
I really like this, it reminds me of Alice In Wonderland but in more of a 70’s/80’s style.
Fendi
Like Bottega Veneta I see a lot of Earthy tones in this but it’s a little more trendy with the graphic prints paired with the lines on the sweater. The coat is beautiful though, it’s a really fluid water print (pun not intended) which is a nice change from the usual splash-mark style water print.
Giorgio Armani
This feels quite Italian and French inspired to me, its pretty easy and casual and its got that slouchy, loose vibe that seems to be really popular for SS15. Really wearable pieces, definitely investment rather than fad.
Gucci
Again, very French/Italian casual, I LOVE the white trench, it looks so uber-luxe, you’d be absolutely terrified about wearing it though for fear of a stray pen flying about at the office.
Iceberg
I sort of like this hobo-y parka thing thats going on, we saw it a year ago when everyone and their mother bought a classic green parka. They just got a bit ugly and shapeless but this feels more utilitarian. Paired with the geometric lines and the Earthy tones on the last look, this is one of the more diverse collections!
Jil Sander
Ice-cream sorbet colours are perfect for SS, more appropriate than some of the ultra-dark looks being shown. Its minimal as usual, very clean and pure. Again I think theres big 70’s referencing in the shape and styling, especially on the first look.
La Perla
Theres something about the fluidity of this collection that feels like an antidote to the current trend for  skinny everything, it all looks very comfortable and wearable. I worry slightly about how this would look on the average civilian vs the models however, but maybe thats just my skinny-jeans-brainwashed mind talking?
Marni
I’m not hugely enamoured with this collection but its combines the geometric trend with dark florals nicely so I thought it was worth a shout.
McQ Alexander McQueen
Always count on McQueen to produce a stellar collection. Even post-Lee the brand is doing well at continuing his spirit. I particularly like the print trousers and the jumper, all very 80’s.
Missoni
Amid all the 70’s references this was a breath of fresh air, specifically Native American air! After Pharrell’s (completely ridiculous) native headdress for Elle scandal its nice to see a subtler representation. Its quite desert-y and Earthy is a more colourful way than Bottega Veneta.
No.21
Why have I not heard of this label before? This is such a great wearable collection! I love the modernity of it, even though theres a bit of the whole 70’s thing again (because really, who hasn’t shown it this season?) its a lot more up-to-date. I love the lace shirt as well.
Philipp Plein
The second I saw this I thought of John Galliano, which is never a bad thing! Great collection, perhaps a little bit dated re: the denim blazer but other than that, spot on!
Prada
I have to say I’m a bit disappointed. Its a bit boring, right? The brown jacket looks like a nicer version of any old Oxfam leather coat from the 70’s. The dark bluey-green is nicer but still, a bit too safe overall.
Roberto Cavalli
Earthy tones again! Love this, I would wear it all. The green jacket is spectacular and the styling is SO on point.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Gorgeous coats, lovely tan colours and the print shirt works well with the muted caramels. I think this is a great way to work with classic 70’s colours.
Versace
Ah, Versace, do you ever disappoint? The answer would be no. Classic Versace, theres something so timeless about their designs. The laser-cut is excellent at updating the casual wear (although is it EVER casual when it comes to Donatella?).

Vivienne Westwood
Best till last. Vivienne, you’re crazy and we love you. The Celine-esque print is lovely and the red and black suit would be surprisingly wearable when used as separates I expect.

Once again the 70’s and geometric trends are going strong but I love the Earthy tones featured in the Milan shows, we didn’t really see that so much in London. Calvin Klein, Bottega Veneta and of course Dolce and Gabbana win it for me… What was your favourite collection?

xoxo Toramarra
Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s