PARIS COUTURE AUTUMN WINTER 2014

I really love the couture shows because from my personal standpoint, they’re all about artistry, the designer’s (and their atelier’s) skill level and the fantasy of fashion. For this reason I don’t look at it so much as how wearable it would be, but at the same time I’m not a big fan of modern art and I think a dress is a dress. Here are all the couture shows that were listed on British Vogue’s runway section.
 Alexandre Vauthier
I like this because I think its very wearable and chic but I don’t really see the couture element. Most of this could easily pass for ready-to-wear.

 Alexis Mabille
This is more what I think of as couture. I get quite a wedding-y vibe from this, its like making a dress for a bride of every taste. The black belted coat dress is particularly beautiful.
 Azzaro
This is all lovely, the silk of the dresses really shows the movement, but I think as much as anything I like the styling. I wonder how show-stopping a collection can be if I find myself constantly drawn to the model’s themselves?
Bouchra Jarrar 
Again, beautifully cut and I enjoy the overall aesthetic immensely, but this just looks like ready-to-wear to me. Beautiful but nothing above ordinary.
Chanel 
This is more like it! Such a brilliant idea to keep all the model’s hair out of their face in that messy sort of front swept style. I really love the juxtaposition of the messy hair and the structured dresses, especially the tin-man-esque shoulders on the first three looks, but the baby blue gown is something else entirely.
Christian Dior
I adore the looks but, while gorgeous, again there’s the issue of simplicity. I don’t really believe that couture is the place to go for such simplistic designs, but the first gown has a particular nonchalant elegance.
Elie Saab
Without a doubt my absolute favourite of the AW14 couture shows. Have you ever seen something so beautiful? Its quite rare for me to see something that truly takes my breath away (I’m not exactly easy to please) but this does just that. The beading is just so intricate and dazzling, this is what couture is all about. 10/10.
 Giambattista Valli
I actually really like this. This is a little more of an approachable couture, but I feel that for the most part its still firmly in the couture zone rather than ready-to-wear. The ombre pink dress is quirky but the purple gown is the standout here. The collection was said to be inspired by the classic mens white shirt, and it works for me!
 Giorgio Armani Prive
This is OK. Nothing really special to me, quite frankly it looks a bit dated.
 Jean Paul Gaultier
YES! Brilliantly mixing the bizarre with the beautiful is Jean Paul Gaultier, who never really disappoints. Wonderfully dark and menacing.
 Maison Martin Margiela
While I love the shapes and the netting over the models faces, I can’t say I’m particularly enamoured with this. 
 Ralph & Russo
How incredible is this? Maybe my second favourite, after Elie Saab. The vampy styling is countered perfectly by the white, neutral gowns, yet even paired with the dark black and navy/purple dresses it isn’t overpowering. I honestly can’t pick a favourite of these five looks.
 Schiaparelli
I kind of love this. It’s a bit 70’s, a bit sofa-pattern, but at least it’s not boring. The high-waisted trousers and bronze blouse is probably my favourite look here.
 Stephane Rolland
It sort of looks a bit tacky to me? Maybe its the styling, the hair and makeup looked quite dated and ‘student fashion project-y’ but the dresses are maybe a little too high contrast. The second gown is stunning however.
 Ulyana Sergeenko
Maybe my third favourite collection (or perhaps that goes to Chanel?). I like the simplicity (at times) of the collection and also the intricate detailing of the feathers on the middle and last gown particularly. Plus anything referencing Celine’s painterly prints is a winner.
 Valentino
I think I want to love this a bit more than I actually do. It’s not that I don’t like it, but I feel a little like there should be more going on. It doesn’t stand out to me like a Valentino couture collection should.
Versace
Again with the vampy severity, I like the edgy sharpness of this collection. The silky pink dress is one of my favourites although I think the skin-tight dress is also stunning, just in a different, more attention-demanding way. 
 Viktor & Rolf
Hmm. Is it meant to be dressing gown material? I’m a tad confused. I like the separates but is this really the artistic maximum of Viktor & Rolf? I hardly think so.
 Vionnet
This is so beautiful in such a classically couture way. I challenge you to find something like this in ready-to-wear. I can’t even pick a favourite, they are all constructed so wonderfully.
 Ziad Ghanem
It’s not exactly pulse-raising but I do like this collection. The third dress in particular is impressively proportioned, though you’d have to be about 7ft tall to wear it.
Zuhair Murad
Lovely! I like the prints, they aren’t tacky as printed ball gowns so often turn out. The last dress is my favourite but the middle and four come in at second, tied. It has quite a Roberto Cavalli vibe.

So what do you think? Couture is always my favourite because its such a testament to the designers creativity. Who was your favourite?

xoxo Toramarra

All photos via British Vogue
Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s