If Hedi Slimane was doing jumpsuits, Americana and fur coats for men at Saint Laurent in the 70s it might look something like this. Its more Brady Bunch, less Fresh Prince – will a look to the 70s finally kill the 90s?
London Collections: Menswear kicked off with Topman Design today at the Old Sorting Office. I watched the show on the live stream online, available to view here. Catch it whilst you still can!
Models walked the runway to the sound of Etienne Jaumet’s Metallik Cages (Acid Arab Remix), behind them a pulsating electric wall of geometric colour-block lights. Earth tones, cool blues and citrus colours dominated the colour scheme, with only a few truly psychedelic pieces coming in the form of shirts and sweaters. Tom Wells opened the show in a patchwork faux-fur coat black trousers and top, setting the theme of a 70’s revival.
The looks following focused on outerwear, in every shape, size and material. A loose camel suede-look, fur trimmed coat; an even looser ankle-grazing aztec print coat; a collared geometric faux fur bomber: an aztec poncho; a fur panelled aztec coat. Ponchos and coats continued to command attention, constructed with shearling bodies, brushed fur and fringing (though not all at once).
Jumpsuits and boiler suits were shown in edged chambray, contrasting panels and tartan patches over turtlenecks. The silhouettes were so very 70s, in that way which suggests not enough food consumed or muscle tone gained. Tartan in itself has its moment; acid-yellow suits, shirts, scarfs (worn around wrists) and panels used throughout the collection. Sew-on stars, lightning bolts and music note patches adorned suede jackets, jumpsuits and scarfs, subtly adding in the compulsory 90’s vibe of the last two years. One such jacket, white with red star patches and blue shoulder stripes couldn’t be a better tribute to Americana.
Suede brogues in muted earth tones arguably resembled sportswear more than the white lace-up trainers that followed. The streamlined simplicity continued in the jeans, which appeared lightweight and straight with slightly flared ends (and it doesn’t get much more 70’s than flares). At times the collection resembles Prada’s SS15 so closely you’ll do a double take – a chambray jacket and jeans combo could be the high street equivalent stylish men have been waiting for.
Updated suiting was a strong element of the collection in a fit perhaps best left to the models, super straight, single breasted with a extra couple of buttons in the middle. In tartan or pinstripe, these may not be your no.1 choice for the office. As the show closed and the models made one final walk together, the synergy of the collection really stood out. Wearability? Surprisingly good, but ultimately thats for you to decide. And I really can’t wait to get ahold of that jumpsuit.