On a poignant and saddening day, where David Bowie’s passing from cancer at age 69 was announced, Italian fashion house Moschino’s AW16 menswear collection at LCM takes on new meaning. The runway show now acts almost as a serendipitous homage to the musical legend’s legacy, whilst showing growth and maturity for the brand.
Yesterday, Moschino showed their latest menswear collection here in London for the world to witness. After recent years of formulaic, albeit profitable, “branded” collections based around items we’re surrounded with – McDonald’s, Barbie, even kitchen cleaners – Jeremy Scott made an about-turn and surprised us with a fresh take on modern masculinity.
Lucky Blue Smith opened the show in a vibrant single-breasted fuchsia suit, with bright yellow sunglasses, shoes and tie, over a cerulean shirt paired with matching paint swiped through his hair. Straight away the look was distinctive; grown-up, sartorial and classic with an almighty twist – the shading covering every garment of clothing. If a regular white shirt and suit is 2D dressing, then this is 3D dressing. The clothes have a rainbow shine as if made of petroleum, transforming in the light and creating a shimmering effect.
Double-breasted suits, overcoats, parkas, bombers and bikers jackets followed in an array of primary coloured vibrancy. White lines ran through the clothes creating an etched on pop-art effect – think Roy Lichtenstein on a jacket. Dusky pinks came next, colour-blocked over checked shirts and painted on to jeans. Shirt jackets and hoodies with Andy Warhol-esque portraits came and went, emblazoned with men visibly reminiscent of 70’s era Bowie himself. Ending on a darker tone of 90s grunge, black was the background for multi-coloured crosses, flowers and footprints to glow from. As the suits were replaced by minidresses and jogger pants, Lucky Blue made one final appearance, wearing a matching coat, shirt and trousers ensemble to rival Joseph’s technicolour dreamcoat.
As is usual with Jeremy Scott, the clothes shown will not easily be forgotten by passers-by in the street. However this time around, rather than use an already established brand to create seasonally trend-driven pieces, the collection shows a more understated Moschino that can be worn time and time again. For the wildly popular fashion house, it seems things are definitely ch-ch-changing.
– Thomas Marrington