Valentino’s AW16 Menswear collection could be described as the ultimate sartorial mullet – business in the front, party in the back. The two faces of Valentino came together in full force to present a show contrasting work vs play.
Muted blacks, greys, olives and camel tones defined the business-luxe aesthetic. Boxy business wear set a sombre tone in louche inky tailoring with polo necks run amok and concrete grey melange outerwear, the shoulders adorned with subtly dark beading. Crisp white shirts, stud-belted macs and ombre sleeves on beige cashmere firmly cemented Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s case for making Valentino the classic working man’s new one-stop-shop. Pearlescent detailing on black shirt-jackets presented a safe alternative to solid noir looks without overstepping the colour boundary, whilst rich heritage-charged checkered wool offset the modernist silhouettes.
Shadowy tones quickly dissipated into rustic, earthy blues, nutmeg browns and organic greens. A clear tribal influence progressed – ponchos, shirts and denim jackets decorated with geometric tribal patterns elevated what could have been a far more casual affair to new and exotic heights. And for the rock indie kid laying dormant in us all after previous seasons of sharp minimalist chic, checked jackets and suits ended the show on a look a little closer to home, both in comfort and in geographic locale.
by Thomas Marrington