Markus Lupfer’s presentations have become not only a reliable staple of quality for London Fashion Week, but a highly anticipated one at that. The king of print debuted a thoughtful and considered collection for AW16 on Saturday, continuing on his floral fixation from last season. In a sea of wildly unwearable design, Lupfer’s collection was that rarest of Fashion Week creatures – the quiet extrovert. Geometric flowers adorned sheer skirts, pockets and pussybow-tied scarves in warm, subtle jewel tones. Cerulean blooms with minty fresh leaves accented dark navy coats, cropped tailored trousers and shirts. Pleats of folded shimmering gold came in the form of empire line skirts and high-necked tops, a pleasant offset to the inky blue-black oversize coats. Just enough sparkle to interest the fashion week magpies, not enough to blind them. Speaking of sparkle, studded stars shone out from ankle boots and handbags. It’s a pretty little direction for Lupfer’s accessories, and whilst he undeniably does this well, it’s knitwear he’s so renowned for. It was slightly surprising then to see such emphasis on, well, everything that wasn’t knitwear. By no means however is this an indication of a downgrade in his talent. If anything, the Markus Lupfer girl can rest easy in the knowledge she has yet another season of standout wardrobe choice, complete with a a dash of 70s and an added hint of intrigue.
– Thomas Marrington