For father-son design duo, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, SS17 represents an air of change. Eerily romantic music filled the space while a heaving bass guided both male and female models down the runway. Immediately evident was their departure from last season’s dark grandeur, in its place a strong streetwear influence with an athleisure take on menswear staples such as the blue oxford shirt, subtly reimagined with aztec print forearms under heavy silver necklaces, more resembling barbaric bibs than fine jewellery.
Pinstripes splashed with bleach alongside clashing prints were chaotic, and yet the colours were muted, with sandy pinks, earthy oranges and stone hues taking over from the vibrant candy colours, deep reds and golds of the previous season.
The Aztec theme, a rather tired fall-back for high street menswear, did felt invigorated through its subtle placing, juxtaposed against the stiffness of starched shirts. Louche sportswear, incorporating the standard track trousers, felt necessary if not revolutionary whilst tie-dyed bleached shirts and trousers provided an interesting twist to summer formal wear.
The standout piece was undoubtably a tracksuit-style poncho – the blinding flash of raised camera phones was testament to this – in an otherwise underwhelming show, perhaps due to the tamed feel of the clothes after the utilitarian princeness of last season, but it shows a lot of restraint for the pair, if a slight lack of imagination.
– Thomas Marrington