Setting the atmosphere with a looping soundtrack of a space shuttle countdown, guests took their seat in the BFC showspace for Christopher Ræburn’s terrestrial SS17 collection. The theme, pre-set by foil-wrapped ID card invites, was quickly shown in NASA style suits made from crinkled white Tyvek fabric.
George Lucas’ debut film THX 1138 was the inspiration, which shone through clearly in the minimalist utilitarian style of the garments. It’s not the first time Ræburn has riffed on uniforms – his AW15 fireman coat springs to mind as padded jackets with tonal straps in rust orange and steel blue, mesh blocked bomber’s appear.
As if there was any doubting it before, logo love is officially back with a vengeance. CR emblazoned on everything from t-shirts to gauze topped jackets followed mint green sweatshirts with appliqué scrabble-esque fronts is an interesting take on the modern trend of brand visibility – they’ll literally spell it out for you.
There was an air of satisfaction in the room as the models made their final walk, stopping statue-still in position, with rapturous applause rained on the designer himself. It felt cohesive, modern and wearable, not to mention timely considering the resurgence of the Star Wars franchise. It may only be one small step for menswear, but its a leap for Christopher Raeburn.
– Thomas Marrington
Photos courtesy of Catwalking