For his SS17 mens collection, Christopher Kane flipped the tables. By contrast, his previous menswear collection, for AW16, was a steely-blue modern affair of stoic poses, razor-sharp hair and straight-cut clothes. For the brighter months Kane looked to both televised crime drama and his hometown of Glasgow for inspiration.
The working class British masculinity of the late ‘70s and ‘80s provides a basis for the collection, with muted gingham and checks appearing on jackets, shirts and sweater-vests. The bomber, a modern menswear essential, loses its current puffed-up silhouette for a non-fussy retro effect.
Law and Order is the name of the game, appearing on tote bags and loose-fitting t-shirts. A Starsky and Hutch-esque figure stares down the barrel of a gun on the back of a beautifully painted leather coat, with cleverly incorporated target practise motifs overlaid.
Considering the difficult social discourse felt in the 80s between law enforcement and the working class, so often villanised in pop culture, the collection cleverly explores the relationship between the two. In essence, one cannot exist without the other. More politically aware than previous collections from Kane, he has struck the perfect balance between social commentary and desirable, not to mention highly wearable, fashion.
– Thomas Marrington