“All the subjects I’m inspired by are a reminder of reality, even if they originate in classic fiction as the kind of inspirational characters we normally dare not admit relating to.” This was the message Katie Eary gave to guests of her show this morning at LCM, before her sea-themed SS17 show.

Her invitation, a criss-cross pattern of fish pre-empted her nautica runway set design – buoys laid on the ground amidst lobster baskets with netting separating the catwalk on either side. And whilst barracuda motifs were to be expected, Eary’s surprising and brilliant take on Americana, a theme seen also at shows such as Sibling, was without warning.

Fish lined sweatshirts below a a block of stars, riffing on the American flag in a way probably never seen before. White pool slides, silk 70s esque shirts (timely with the recent release of The Nice Guys) and cashmere striped knitwear with mesh panels felt wearable but innovative and, most importantly, a lot of fun.

The political nature of the show did not go unnoticed. While discussions take place about the future of the North Sea oil industry, models took to the runway with slicked back hair, petroleum colours swept through the roots, their faces shimmery with red-rimmed eyes. As Eary put it herself, the collection represented “California dreams-turned-nightmares”, an apt description of what was half political statement, half fashion show, and all-around crowdpleaser.

– Thomas Marrington

Photos courtesy of Catwalking


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