stunning St Sepulchre church played home to one of the biggest tickets in the menswear calendar on Saturday, where crowds of the fashion elite descended to bear witness to Matthew Miller’s eagerly anticipated SS18 show.
And bear witness we did; the gloomy gothic aura of the church created an dark atmosphere that, through the palpable excitement, had a touch of fearfulness to it, compounded by the starkly aggressive spoken-word soundtrack, warning us that no allegiance to God would keep us safe – sinister stuff.
The collection, titled Degeneration, reflected this wholeheartedly. Clothes arrived in various states of deconstruction; tulle fronted shirts and dresses, raw-edged, black and violently spewing forwards felt subversively masculine.
Police-like body vests, a look already seen this season, came back with buckles, another recurring trend for SS18. Dark camo, less showy and more subtly stylish, permeated the collection. It was mainly a monochrome affair, save for the addition of biohazard-orange straps and beige trench coats.
Tailoring was kept neat and on the shorter side; cropped suit and tuxedo jackets, another garment having a moment this season, appeared briefly. The models were groomed as though drudged through a bog, with wet-look hair, artily styled, and blackened lips, smudged to the side as though kissed by Satan himself.
Overall, the show had a demonic and anarchic feeling. It’s clearly something Miller revelled in creating – every aspect of the show came together to form a twisted, dark fantasy, with nightmarish results.
– Thomas Marrington
Images courtesy of Matthew Miller